Thursday 19 September 2013

Want to increase learning in the Class Room? School Gardens!

School Gardens = Increased Learning!

"Children are born naturalists. They explore the world with all of their senses, experiment in the environment, and communicate their discoveries to those around them."

IS IT TIME FOR ACTION?
DOES YOUR CHILD'S SCHOOL HAVE A LEARNING GARDEN?
DOES YOUR CHILD NEED NEW WAYS TO LEARN AND EXPERIENCE THEIR WORLD?

"Teaching children about the natural world should be seen as one of the most important events in their lives."
Thomas Berry, The Dream of the Earth

Well, it's probably no surprize that Vancouver has a fantastic School Garden initiative! Ever want to confront your School Board on why YOU don't have a school garden? Well, here's your chance! Here is the VBE document from Vancouver so you can read what their Board says.

The Windsor Essex Catholic District School Board is HERE
The Greater Essex County District School Board is HERE

VBE School Food Garden Policy Statement
Passed February 2010

The Vancouver Board of Education recognizes the important role school food gardens can play in students' learning. Garden-based learning can enhance academic achievement through integration of hands-on experiences into diverse subjects such as math, science, nutrition and environmental education. Garden-based learning also allows students to discover and experience fresh, healthy food and to make healthy food choices.

The use of school food gardens is consistent with the Board’s commitment to sustainability and healthy food environments.  School food gardens allow for the incorporation of fresh, local fruit and vegetables into the cafeteria and school meal program. A school food garden can also play a role in increasing the food security of the students, families and the community by providing space for the production of food through collaborative community and school gardens.

The Vancouver Board of Education therefore encourages and supports the development of school food gardens, recognizing the many benefits to developing and maintaining school food gardens including opportunities for learning, for increasing access to healthy food, for promoting enhanced social and emotional development and for contributing to the greening of school grounds and the building of green spaces for neighbourhoods in Vancouver.
District goals, relative to garden projects, are to help the school community carry out a successful and sustainable project that meets the above stated outcomes while adhering to district codes and standards.  The VBE Food Gardens Process document outlines the process of planning, designing, implementing, maintaining and sustaining school and daycare food gardens (located on VBE property) to ensure their success over the long term.
Guiding Principles for the VBE School Garden Policy
The following guidelines are to help the school community plan and implement a successful, sustainable project, which meets codes and district standards.
To embrace the spirit of caring, social responsibility, inclusiveness, co-operation, team-work, consensus and collaborative processes in the development of the garden space.
To ensure the involvement of children (daycare) and students (schools) throughout the planning, design, construction and maintenance of the garden.
To give students the opportunity to plant, harvest, prepare, and eat food they have grown.
To integrate eating experiences, food gardens, food preparation and nutritional education into the school curriculum for all grades. To ensure that the garden space is used to deliver and is connected to curriculum studies.
To encourage the use of environmental ‘best practices’ for organic gardening (pesticide and herbicide free, no treated lumber), water use, soil building, harvesting and seed saving.
To support students in the growing of culturally appropriate foods at their schools as well as to explore the cultural food and agriculture traditions represented by the diverse populations of Vancouver.  
To promote environmental stewardship by involving students and local community in the ongoing maintenance of the garden space, weeding, watering, and garbage removal and compost care.
To respect the rights and responsibilities of the VBE Grounds crews as laid out by their collective bargaining agreements.
To ensure approvals and implementation take place within a reasonable timeframe.
To ensure that no poisonous plants shall be used in the school garden, and to encourage the use of heirloom fruit and vegetable varieties where possible.
To ensure that the garden project is sustainable through ongoing maintenance throughout the school year and is continued through subsequent years.
Vancouver Board of Education Gardens Process
Welcome to the VBE Gardens Process
The Vancouver Board of Education (VBE) encourages and supports the development of school gardens for learning, for increasing access to healthy food, for community and social development as well as beautification and greening of the schoolyard.  Refer to the VBE School Garden Policy Statement for background on defining school gardens, benefits of school gardens and composting and VBE support for school gardens. Many of the items in this process do refer to food gardens, however, the actual process steps are to be used for all garden and greening processes.
Table of Contents
Guiding Principles
Process Steps / Timeline
1. Form a Garden Team and develop a project idea
2. Develop your proposal
1. Develop your garden scope
2. Develop your project timeline
3. Identify your possible funding source(s)
4. Develop your garden design
5. Create a garden maintenance and management plan
6. Develop a plan for the use of foods produced
7. Develop a plan for composting
3. Submit your proposal and meet with VBE Grounds
1. Proposal are due by Dec. 1st OR July 1st
2. Proposal adjudication
4. Garden Installation
5. Celebration and Reflection
Appendix A – Frequently Asked Questions
Appendix B – Garden Bed Construction and Pricing
Appendix C – Composting Article
Appendix D – Construction plan for composter
Step 1. Form a Garden Team and develop a project idea
A school garden that engages the broad school and neighborhood community is more likely to be successful. School gardens can be wonderful places with vast potential for engagement. During the project idea step, begin to discuss the garden idea with parents, school administration, teachers, students and external partners or groups.
Like any project, a project leader is essential, someone with time and energy to dedicate to the project. There is a lot of work involved in the creation of a garden. When planning your project, plan it in stages so that energy and focus can be applied in ways that also bring success with a staged approach.
Creating a successful garden project will take some work, but the result will be worth it. For the garden to be viable in the long-term, it will need involvement from more than one or two people.  The first step in the process is to form a school Garden Team to ensure a minimum of support for the project.  For example, we suggest a minimum 2 staff, 2 parents, 2 students, an administrator and a custodian, but the people and numbers will vary depending on the school. This Team could be a sub-committee, a stand alone team, or a sub-group of the PAC, environmental or green club.
Things to discuss at this step;
Your vision and goal for the project
The location, size and type of garden. (e.g. do you want pots with herbs, raised garden beds, fruit trees, etc.) What type of garden do you want, food, butterfly, flower? Will you have fruit trees?
Who will be the liaison to VSB Grounds (the Principal or Vice-Principal)
Where you will seek funding
Ideas for summer maintenance
Possible partners
Who else should be part of the garden team? missing (other teachers, school programs)
Review the Food Garden Application (Step 2) to become aware of what will be expected for the application –you don’t have to address all of the items in Step 2 at this stage.
Establish a Garden Team if one doesn’t exist yet.
See Appendix A for the Frequently Asked Questions to help guide your team’s discussion.
________________________________________
Step 2. Develop your proposal
Now it’s time to develop the garden proposal.  Work through the following seven areas with your garden team and then submit your plan in writing to the Grounds Supervisor. Note that proposals submitted and approved in the December 1 round will be installed in February and March.  Proposals approved in the July 1 round will be installed in October and November of the following school year. Proposals can be submitted before the deadlines and are reviewed on a first come basis.  
A. What is the scope of your garden?
B. What is your project timeline?
C. What are your possible funding source(s and your budget?
D. What is your garden design?
E. What is your plan for maintaining the garden?
F. What is the plan for the foods produced?
G. What is your composting plan?
2A. Develop your garden scope
The first step to a successful project is to define the project scope. This is different from the more conceptual idea discussed in Step 1. The scope should include all of the details of the project.
These questions may help you outline the project scope:
What are the goals for this garden? Education?  Community building? Food Security? Food production?
Who will be using this garden? Is it a learning garden for students and parents during the school year?  Is it a community garden intended for year-round use? Will another organization be sharing use of the garden?
What is the location and size of the garden? What is the composting plan?
Who will be participating in the design of the project?  How will you get   community input into the design of the project?
Who will be installing the garden?  Work with VBE Grounds to ensure it follows VBE union codes and standards.
How will the garden be watered? What is the water source and how will water be transported to the garden? Can plants be used to minimize the need for watering?  Will you be raising funds for a water hook up or irrigation system?
And most importantly, how will the garden be maintained long-term?  How will it be maintained over the summer? The VBE requires a long-term maintenance agreement with the school garden team and administrator.
Consider partnering with an external organization or finding volunteers who have expertise in gardens. Potential partner groups or volunteers include:
1.
1. Evergreen
2. Environmental Youth Alliance (EYA)
3. Society Promoting Environmental Conservation (SPEC)
4. Master Gardeners
5. Landscape Architects
6. UBC students (Land and Food Systems, landscape architecture, the UBC School of community and Regional Planning (SCARP)
7. Neighbouring School
8. Local church, community centre, or seniors’ centre
2B. Develop your project timeline
The timeline should include:
Time to design the garden and complete the garden drawings
Time to review the design with members of the community, students and the school staff. This will require setting up meetings and giving attendees sufficient notice before meetings.
Time for VBE grounds and maintenance staff to review the garden design to ensure that standards and codes are met and availability of grounds staff.
Time for construction, including ordering supplies, soil, etc
Time for planting, including determining what to plant and when it could be ready.
It is helpful to think about when you hope to have the garden *finished* and then work backwards. Be realistic, planning and implementation always takes much longer. Be cognizant of the school schedule and teacher/student timetables, holidays and other limitations.
2C. Identify your possible funding source(s)
You need to identify current or potential funding sources for the garden. The VBE does not fund garden projects.  
Ideas for fundraising:
Apply for grants
Partner with non-profits
Seek community involvement, pro bono and other donations in design, materials, and implementation
Fundraising initiatives
Costs to consider:
water hook up and irrigation (if needed)
soil and amendments
garden tools
seeds, plants
shed / tool area
wood (if raised beds are to be built) – see Appendix B for design and cost
fencing (if needed)composter – see Section 3G
signage
2D. Develop your garden design
For the this phase, you will need to identify where specific elements of the garden will be located and what materials will be used for plants, walkways, edges, fencing, etc.
It’s important to have a long-term vision of the garden, but remember to start with a small project in your first year. A larger garden project can be developed in phases over a few years. Phasing allows the committee to evaluate how the garden is working and make corrections in future phases.  
The project design is critical to the success of the project. A successful project will use materials that are safe for the school, rugged, drought- and rain-tolerant, and low maintenance.  
This is where student input is most valuable and which gives students a sense of contribution and buy-in to the project. We need to value the process as much as the outcome. A good process would be participatory, collaborative, creative and inclusive. Think about who needs to be engaged in the process. It is important to bring in expertise and to provide as many opportunities for school wide contribution and feedback.
A key consideration in a design process is how the garden will be used, the activities that students imagine themselves doing and then working from that to specific garden features.
Consider these important design issues:
Location and physical layout
Ensure the project is well located, i.e.:
near the school building
close to a water supply for plant watering as well as hand washing
with access to parking or a driveway for delivery
visibility to surrounding community
receives ample sunlight (at least 6 hrs per day) and
is manageable in size
is away from dumpsters/ garbage bins
doesn’t abut a green space due to the presence of higher numbers of rodents
Fencing may or may not be required and will be decided based on site circumstances by the Principal and Grounds Supervisor.  Fencing can be helpful in areas where dogs and other animals frequently travel.
Make garden beds accessible to all students. At least part of the garden must be accessible for children with limited mobility (height, surface material and width of pathway).   See Appendix B for pricing and construction of 4x8’ beds.
Include a secured place to store tools/hoses and materials nearby with a strategy for access to these tools over the summer months.  A simple wooden chest / bench that can be locked with a combination lock can work.  It is useful for teachers or older students to be able to access simple tools to do garden work without having to find the janitorial staff or other staff each time to unlock tools.
Drip irrigation using soaker hoses are acceptable. Timers are encouraged (in lock boxes) so as to encourage watering in the early morning.
Site preparation requiring large equipment is the responsibility of the VBE Maintenance Dept.
Safety first! Avoid trip or slip hazards.
Avoid vandalism opportunities (including rocks that could be tossed, skateboarding edges, easily broken sculptures, elements that give access to school building roofs)
VBE Grounds will not allow water features due to safety concerns. Covered features such as arbors will also not be allowed.
Plants
Consider how plants grow over time and may inhibit pedestrian flow when identifying plant locations.
Consider how plant debris will be composted or disposed of.
Engage "experts" to flesh out the design.  Work with a master gardener, landscape architect or designer. The architect can help with designing "hardscape" areas such as constructed paths or courtyards.  A master gardener is particularly knowledgeable about plant selection and placement. You may have garden designers or architects in your school community who may be willing to volunteer.
Example of a garden drawing:
 
2E. Create a garden maintenance and management plan
The VBE requires a Long-term Maintenance Plan and Agreement. The following are considerations to include in your written maintenance plan.  
Regular up-keep:
1. Determine who will sow, weed, compost, and water during the school year.  If a number of classes are using the garden, it might be helpful to create a schedule for caring for the garden.
2. Develop a watering plan: who will water the garden and when?  If you plan to plant fruit trees then a 3-year watering plan needs to be established until the trees are well established.
3. Describe your plan for compost maintenance to discourage rodents.
4. Establish and share a summer site management schedule with names and contact information of volunteers.  Include procedures, location of keys to access tools, and days scheduled.  Keep a gardening journal so volunteers can see what has been done i.e. fertilizing, weeding, planting, watering etc.
5. Outline your plan for winter maintenance (i.e. cover crops) and spring soil preparation.
6. Plan for specialty maintenance such as tree replacement, large tree installation or tree pruning.
7. Include a statement acknowledging and adhering to VBE standards including avoiding the use of pesticides, fungicides and herbicides on VBE properties.
8. Include a statement that the team will respond in a timely manner to correct any safety issues created by the garden or any violations to VBE codes.
Long-term planning
1. Develop a long-term plan to maintain any garden-owned materials (eg. wooden beds, fences, irrigation, paths, etc)
2. Develop a long-term strategy to keep enthusiasm high among volunteers and to recruit new volunteers.
3. Identify the number of years each team member commits to maintaining the garden and outline a succession plan. There should be a minimum 3-5 year commitment and plan. The agreement should be reviewed and renewed each year.
4. We encourage you to put aside some of your funding for unexpected contingencies.
2F. Develop a plan for the use of foods produced
Preparing and sharing foods is a rewarding part of growing foods.  Foods need to be prepared following food safe principles.
 When harvesting and using food from the garden:
1. At least one person per school who is involved with the garden and/or food preparation should be Food Safe certified.  This person should be able to consult with others involved in the food related events / food production.  
2. Anyone who is sick should not be involved in food preparation.
3. Anyone involved in harvesting foods should wash their hands before and after harvesting produce.
4. Anyone involved in food preparation should wash their hands before doing any food preparation.
For information on getting Food Safe certification and on food safety principles, visit www.foodsafe.ca/ andwww.fightbac.org/
A) If the kitchen you use does not have an operating permit (eg. staff rooms, home economics classrooms)
produce may be washed, peeled, cut and served raw to students (e.g. taste tests)
produce may be prepared /cooked and consumed only by the involved classes
washed produce may be donated to school families, charities or food banks
washed produce may be sold as a fundraiser
B) If the kitchen you use does have a food service operating permit * (eg. cafeterias, restaurants, other kitchens that have applied to a health inspector and received an operating permit)
any of the food preparation activities listed above are allowed, and additionally:
produce may be prepared in the permitted kitchen for sale or for educational purposes, and
produce may be prepared for use in the school meal program.
* To learn about the process of obtaining a food service operating permit, see the BC Public Health Act – Food Premises Regulations at www.foodsafe.ca/downloadfiles/FSFoodservices02-FoodPremReg.pdf  
And the Vancouver Coastal Health website at www.vch.ca/your_environment/food_safety/permits/  
C) If garden produce is processed into preserved food products for consumption later by the class or for retail sales, consult Appendix I of the Guideline for Sale of Foods at Temporary Food Markets,www.vch.ca/media/Guidelines_Sale_Foods_Temporary_Markets.pdf. It is recommended that preserves be limited to the low risk category; those preserves with a water activity of >85 or less or a pH value of 4.6 or less.
________________________________________

2G. Develop a plan for composting
Many schools are either beginning, or wanting to begin some kind of composting system at their schools. There are four steps for starting a school composting system.
1) Training
Any school staff or students that want to begin a composting program must arrange to take a free composting seminar from the City Farmer demonstration garden at Maple and 7th Ave in Vancouver. You can contact the great folks at City Farmer by calling 604-685-5832 or emailing cityfarm@interchange.ubc.ca .  www.cityfarmer.org/
2) Select a Composter
There are many different types of composters, each has benefits and drawbacks. Your composting program’s success will be more reliant upon the process and commitment than on the type of composter you choose. The folks at city farmer can show you various types of composters.
One type that we strongly recommend is called ‘The Rodent Resistant Compost Box’.  See Appendix D for the drawings. The cost for this composter is approximately $800 so please factor that into your decision. If you would like to have one of these composters built for your school, please contact the VBE Grounds Supervisor. Some schools have had their woodshops build these units.
3) Select a Location
Once you have selected a location for the composter, include it in a drawing as part of your garden proposal. Composters must be lockable.
Please note that VBE Grounds will not break through cement to install a composter, so please take this into account when considering your composter location. The Grounds Supervisor will make the final decision on the appropriate location of the composter.
4) Install the Composter
Once the location has been approved by the Grounds Department, you can go ahead with the installation (the Grounds Department can do this for you for a nominal fee. If you would like the Grounds Department to install your composter please let us know).
For more information about composting, see Appendix C.
________________________________________
Step 3. Submit your proposal and meet with VBE Grounds
            Proposals are due by December 1 or July 1.
Submit your written garden proposal to the Grounds Supervisor who will review it and let you know if you are ready to go to Step 4.
You can submit your application
via email: jepplette@vsb.bc.ca
via the blue bag system: Send to VBE Grounds Supervisor
Grounds will contact you to arrange a meeting time. This is the stage where your proposal will be adjudicated.
________________________________________
Step 4. Garden Installation
Once the project is approved for construction, funds are raised and available, and all agreements signed and submitted, you are ready to install the garden!!
1. VBE Grounds staff prepare the site for gardening or teachers and students may prepare the site with permission from the VBE Grounds dept (e.g. pull up lawn or sheet mulch, delineate plot boundaries)
2. VBE staff or Students/parents and teachers may prepare garden beds (e.g. add soil amendments or build boxes). Raised beds may be built off-site to VBE standards and installed by VBE maintenance staff.
3. Installation will take place depending on when your application was submitted. Proposals approved in the December 1 round will be installed in February and March.  Proposals approved in the July 1 round will be installed in October and November of the following school year. Proposals can be submitted before the deadlines and are approved on a first come basis.
4. Final inspection. The Grounds Supervisor will complete the final inspection.
5. Garden expansion. Please note that future garden expansions must also be approved by Grounds before being implemented

________________________________________

Step 5. Celebration and Reflection
Congratulations – you’ve done it. You now have a beautiful garden - now it’s time to celebrate! Consider holding a community event for the opening. Neighbours and other community members who have not been directly participating in the project may be excited to get involved once they see the final project!   Fall harvest celebrations also provide a rewarding opportunity for school and community garden events.
Congratulations and happy gardening!
The writing team was Kevin Millsip - VBE Sustainability, Brent Mansfield of Think&EatGreen@School, Sarah Carten and Melanie Kurrein at Vancouver Coastal Health and the VBE Grounds Department. The process steps were adapted from the Portland Public Schools Garden Policy.  And a special thanks to all of the great food, garden and other folks, staff and students who provided feedback for this policy.

Monday 16 September 2013

Frugal can be healthy!

Frugal can be healthy 

  • BEATRICE FANTONI
  • The Windsor Star

Planning your meals is crucial, as is the time you spend in the kitchen

Healthy food doesn’t always come across as affordable and words like “fresh,” “organic” and “local” don’t always point to a bargain. But if you’re on a tight budget, does it mean you’re banished to an eternity of boiled potatoes, bland pasta and mystery meats?
NICK BRANCACCIO/The Windsor StarCooking coach Marianne Haddad, left, and student Leila Chauvin used fresh, healthy ingredients during class at St. John’s Anglican Church.
Local dietitians, chefs, community kitchen co-ordinators and everyday cooks and say it isn’t so. There are people in Windsor-Essex who manage it every day.
“Planning your meals is absolutely critical,” said Elizabeth Strachan, a public health nutritionist who runs cooking classes in local schools. So is the will to spend some time — perhaps the priciest commodity of all — in the kitchen.
Christine Turick, who has been taking cooking classes with the Youth and Family Resource Network in Leamington since December, said she’s managed to convert her 22-year-old son to foods like turkey burgers and artichokes using what she’s learned about meal planning and healthy food alternatives.
“He’s eating stuff I’ve never made before,” Turick said, adding that she’s learned to make healthy and economical substitutions that have helped her think outside the traditional “Canadian cooking” box.
“Things like zucchini, I never thought of,” she said, referring to how she learned to bake them into healthy chocolate cookies. “We’re using things in a non-traditional way.”
Last week, Turick and her fellow classmates tackled a slightly fancier-than-usual menu of chicken scaloppini seasoned with lemon, capers and leeks, a side of basmati rice and lemon-blueberry yogurt loaf.
The leeks came from the community garden, but the chicken was on sale for $3.99 a pound and, with the rest of the ingredients split four ways, the group churned out four servings for about $4.75 each. The HST on that grocery bill? Three cents. That’s because everything they use is fresh or staple foods, and therefore, tax-free.
They might stay away from pricier meats, fishes and cheeses, said Marianne Haddad, who co-ordinates the program, but a stack of their class recipes shows it’s still possible to whip up dishes like balsamic sweet potato salad with blue cheese, artichoke and feta stuffed pork tenderloin and double chocolate brownies for much less than their prepared or restaurant equivalents.
Chef Robert Catherine, a cooking instructor at the Unemployed Help Centre who teaches high school students in the centre’s community kitchen, said he’s taught his high schoolers the way to prepare meals on a budget of $4 or less. And the local Meals on Wheels program, for which Catherine and his students cook, can turn out hundreds of complete meals for local seniors — like a grilled pork chop, side of potatoes, green beans, bowl of chowder and fresh-baked muffin — for $6.25 a pop. That’s less than a fast food meal, he said.
The cost of feeding a family of four in Windsor-Essex is estimated to be $170.23 a week, according to the Windsor-Essex County Health Unit’s latest “nutritious food basket” survey.
There’s no getting around the fact that food is expensive, Strachan said, but the more processed it is, the more expensive it gets.
A 2002 study published in the Journal of the American Dietetic Association found that the cost for a family to feed itself after switching from a nutrient-poor to a nutrientrich diet was the same after six months and even went down after 12 months.
“People need to be more open to trying things,” Strachan said. Experimenting, making budget-friendly substitutions and eating new foods are all necessary when you have to watch what you spend. Our expectations about how food should taste and look have been skewed after decades of convenience and ready-made foods, she said, and that also has to change.
Chicken Scaloppini with Lemon, Capers and Leeks
A full, budget-friendly and taste-tested meal for four from the Youth and Family Resource Network’s kitchen:
1 package chicken (breasts, thighs or substitute another meat like pork or even fish) 1/2 teaspoon salt, divided 1/2 teaspoon ground pepper, divided 1/3 cup whole wheat flour 3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, divided 2 large leeks, trimmed, washed and thinly sliced 1 cup low-sodium chicken broth 3 cloves garlic, minced 2 tablespoons capers, rinsed 1 teaspoon freshly grated lemon zest 1 tablespoon lemon juice 3 tablespoons chopped flat-leaf parsley
Season chicken on both sides. Place flour on a large plate, dredge the pieces shaking off excess.
Heat 2 teaspoons oil in a large non-stick skillet on medium heat. Add the chicken and cook until golden brown and just cooked through; about 4 minutes per side. Transfer to a platter.
Add 2 teaspoons oil to the same pan and add leeks. Cook 6-8 minutes. Stir in chicken broth and garlic, bring to a boil, scraping up any brown bits, and simmer for 2 minutes. Stir in capers, lemon zest, lemon juice, parsley, salt and pepper. Return the chicken to the pan. Cook, turning the chicken to coat with the sauce until heated through, about 1-2 minutes.
To serve, top with leek mixture.
Basmati Rice
1 cup basmati rice 2 cups water 1 teaspoon olive oil
In a pot, add water and olive oil to the rice and bring to a boil. Continue to boil until potholes appear.
Turn to low and cover. Simmer 5-10 minutes or until soft. Remove from heat and let sit.
Fluff with fork before serving.
Lemon-blueberry Yogurt Loaf
Ingredients for loaf: 1½ cups whole wheat flour 2 teaspoons baking powder 1/2 teaspoon salt 1/3 cup brown sugar 1 cup plain yogurt 3 large eggs 2 teaspoons grated lemon zest (1-2 lemons) 1/2 teaspoon pure vanilla extract 1/2 cup canola oil 1½ cups blueberries, fresh or, if frozen, thawed and rinsed
Preheat the oven to 350 F. Grease an 8.5-inch by 4-inch loaf pan. Line the bottom with parchment paper. Then grease and flour the pan. Sift the flour, baking powder and salt into a bowl.
In a separate bowl, whisk the yogurt, eggs, lemon zest, vanilla and oil. Slowly whisk the dry ingredients into the wet ingredients.
In another bowl, mix the blueberries with the remaining tablespoon of flour and fold them into the batter Pour the batter into the prepared pan and bake for about 50 minutes or until an inserted cake tester comes out clean.
Lemon glaze (optional)
1/3 cup lemon juice 1 tablespoon sugar
For the optional lemon glaze, heat the lemon juice and sugar in a small pan on the stove until the sugar dissolves and the mixture is clear. Set aside. When the cake is baked, allow it to cool 10 minutes before turning it onto a cooling rack and carefully place it over a baking sheet. While the cake is still warm, pour the glaze over the cake and allow it to soak. A pastry brush can help.

Tuesday 10 September 2013

Community Garden and Urban Ag Workshops 2014


Windsor Essex County

Community Garden and Urban Ag 

Educational Workshops 

(2014)

If you or someone you know is interested in being part of our 2014 Community Garden Education Series, please send me your/their name and contact information. We are looking for Community members of Windsor and Essex County to lead the following (but not limited to) workshops:

  • Basic Garden Planning
  • How To Build A Raised Box Garden (Hands On)
  • Growing Your Own Transplants
  • Composting and Vermiculture Projects (Hands On)
  • Maintaining Your Fruit Trees
  • Berry Bushes
  • Container & Vertical Gardening (Hands On)
  • Root Crops and Alliums (Onions/Garlic)
  • Hot Crops In the City!
  • Cool Crop Essentials
  • Season Extention Essentials
  • Making The Most of Your Greenhouse
  • Gift From Above: Rain Catchment Systems
  • Succession Planting: Getting The Most From Your Season
  • How To Build A Pollination Garden
  • How To Create & Keep Great Soil
  • Beneficial Insects vs. Home Garden Wreckers!
  • Small Scale Permaculture
  • Small Scale Hydroponic Vegetable Production
  • Gardening with Native Species of Windsor Essex
  • Companion Planting
  • Backyard Hens: Caring For Your Small Flock (Legal or Not!)


There is a very good possibility that there will be small stipends attached to these workshops.Dates, Time, Details ALL TO FOLLOW!

EMAIL: Steve Green @ stevegreen(at)ymail{dot}com 

           or wegardencollective{at}gmail(dot)com

Or have them call 519-258-3033 ext.1148 (ask for Steve or Leave A Message)

Windsor Essex County Community Garden Network Coordinator

Monday 26 August 2013

New Article on OurWindsor.ca

Community gardens an idea set to grow, thanks to new grant

OurWindsor.Ca
ByMichael Michalski
A local activist has nurtured the idea of a volunteer community garden from simple seed into a paying gig, and is now – more importantly - tasked with expanding the idea even further.
However, actually earning money to do something he genuinely loves is going to take some getting used to for the new coordinator of the Windsor-Essex County Community Garden Collective.
“Its kind of surreal to think I can now do this 30 hrs a week - paid. I keep thinking someone will come around to collect all the money I earn doing the job,” joked Steve Green, the man now tasked with expanding his community garden project in Ford City, thanks to a three-year Trillium Foundation grant of $152,400 announced earlier in the week.
“Its extremely gratifying and I feel very privileged to be the one selected to lead the charge. Despite the hectic aspect of the job, it doesn't feel like work.”
To Green, being green is something that just comes naturally, he said – even though he knows the task ahead will be anything but easy.
“There's a good deal of troubleshooting for people involved in gardens. Plenty of resourcing for needs of the gardens. Physical work in gardens when requested or invited. Constant education for new and old gardeners,” said Green.
“There is (also) the additional work of helping new groups establish gardens, helping individuals find gardens to work in, policy work, food charter development, and forecasting for the future on how to make the gardens and urban (agriculture) projects successful. I'll also be exploring social enterprise and community garden networks. Just being available is half the job.”
Still, Green wouldn’t have it any other way, saying he is buoyed by the fact that others are now recognizing the need for such endeavors as well.
“I believe it is the right direction for Windsor Essex for so many reasons (including) health, social interaction, mental health, nutrition, inter-generational activity (and) food security,” he said. “It's nice to know that the community is supporting a truly life giving role in the community.
“I'd rather do this than give people parking tickets or repossess homes.”
Green said the benefits of a community garden goes far beyond simply providing fresh food for those in its immediate vicinity.
“Community gardening has a tremendous amount of social impact on people and whole communities. It empowers people who may not have had a role in the neighborhood. It gets people talking about what else they want to change in their world. It can refocus lives. It can bring families together. It draws people to free and open spaces. Its an activity that people can do and they don't have to pay for entrance.,” said Green, noting he is always on the lookout for like-minded volunteers – especially now.
“A lot of activities for people are based on how much money you can spend. Community Gardening is an activity that gives back to you a 100 times over.”
Anyone who is interested in starting a community garden or working in an urban garden/farm project can contact Green at wegardencollective@gmail.com or by calling 519-258-3033 ext.1148.

Wednesday 24 July 2013

City Announces Fruit And Veggie Prescription Program


City Announces Fruit And Veggie Prescription Program
'This Is Probably Going To Prevent an Awful Lot More Disease'

July 23, 2013 6:18 PM

NEW YORK (CBSNewYork) — Two New York City hospitals have a new way to combat the epidemic of obesity. Pediatricians at Lincoln Medical Center in the Bronx and at Harlem Hospital are writing prescriptions for fruits and vegetables to at-risk youths. Patients who receive the prescriptions get coupons for produce at local farmers markets and city green carts.  It’s part of a four-month pilot program to get kids to slim down. “This is probably going to prevent an awful lot more disease over the long-term than a lot of the medicines we tend to write for,” New York City Health Commissioner Dr. Thomas Farley said Tuesday in the green market outside Lincoln Medical Center.

The prescription worked for the Bronx’s Tammy Fudge and her 11-year-old son, Tai-Jay. They told WCBS 880′s Marla Diamond that he lost 40 pounds and significantly reduced his asthma symptoms. “I lost the weight by eating vegetables and fruits and also exercising with my dear mother,” Tai-Jay said.
(Mother and son at the Lincoln Medical Center Farmers Market, July 23, 2013.)

“We started eating right. My son has not been in the hospital at all,” Tammy said. Precious River, a shopper at the green market, told Diamond she thought the program was a start. “[But] it starts at home. It starts at home. Because the doctor can encourage and can offer whatever, but it starts at home,” she said. 

Mother Earth News: Fall Veggies Article

Grow Your Best Fall Garden Vegetables: What, When and How

August/September 2009
http://www.motherearthnews.com/organic-gardening/fall-garden-vegetables-zmaz09aszraw.aspx
Start a fall garden this summer and you’ll be able to enjoy homegrown produce at winter holiday meals.


PHOTO: LYNN KARLIN

Right now, before you forget, put a rubber band around your wrist to remind you of one gardening task that cannot be postponed: Planting seeds for fall garden vegetables. As summer draws to a close, gardens everywhere can morph into a tapestry of delicious greens, from tender lettuce to frost-proof spinach, with a sprinkling of red mustard added for spice. In North America’s southern half, as long as seeds germinate in late July or early August, fall gardens can grow the best cabbage, broccoli, and cauliflower you’ve ever tasted. In colder climates it’s prime time to sow carrots, rutabagas, and turnips to harvest in the fall. Filling space vacated by spring crops with summer-sown vegetables will keep your garden productive well into fall, and even winter.
Granted, the height of summer is not the best time to start tender seedlings of anything. Hot days, sparse rain, and heavy pest pressure must be factored into a sound planting plan, and then there’s the challenge of keeping fall plantings on schedule. But you can meet all of the basic requirements for a successful, surprisingly low-maintenance fall garden by following the steps outlined below. The time you invest now will pay off big time as you continue to harvest fresh veggies from your garden long after frost has killed your tomatoes and blackened your beans.

1. Starting Seeds

Count back 12 to 14 weeks from your average first fall frost date (see “Fall Garden Planting Schedule” below) to plan your first task: starting seeds of broccoli, Brussels sprouts, cabbage, cauliflower, and kale indoors, where germination conditions are better than they are in the garden. Some garden centers carry a few cabbage family seedlings for fall planting, but don’t expect a good selection. The only sure way to have vigorous young seedlings is to grow your own, using the same procedures you would use in spring (see Start Your Own Seeds). As soon as the seedlings are three weeks old, be ready to set them out during a period of cloudy weather.
If you’re already running late, you can try direct-seeding fast-growing varieties of broccoli, kale or kohlrabi. Sow the seeds in shallow furrows covered with half an inch of potting soil. Keep the soil moist until the seedlings germinate, then thin them. The important thing is to get the plants up and growing in time to catch the last waves of summer heat.
When is too late? The end of July marks the close of planting season for cabbage family crops in northern areas (USDA Zones 6 and lower); August is perfect in warmer climates. Be forewarned: If cabbage family crops are set out after temperatures have cooled, they grow so slowly that they may not make a crop. Fortunately, leafy greens (keep reading) do not have this problem.

2. Think Soil First

In addition to putting plenty of supernutritious food on your table, your fall garden provides an opportunity to manage soil fertility, and even control weeds. Rustic greens including arugula, mustard, and turnips make great triple-use fall garden crops. They taste great, their broad leaves shade out weeds, and nutrients they take up in fall are cycled back into the soil as the winter-killed residue rots. If you have time, enrich the soil with compost or aged manure to replenish micronutrients and give the plants a strong start.
You can also use vigorous leafy greens to “mop up” excess nitrogen left behind by spring crops (the organic matter in soil can hold quite a bit of nitrogen, but some leaches away during winter). Space that has recently been vacated by snap beans or garden peas is often a great place to grow heavy feeders such as spinach and cabbage family crops. When sown into corn stubble, comparatively easy-to-please leafy greens such as lettuce and mustard are great at finding hidden caches of nitrogen.

3. Try New Crops

Several of the best crops for your fall garden may not only be new to your garden, but new to your kitchen, too. Set aside small spaces to experiment with nutty arugula, crunchy Chinese cabbage, and super-cold-hardy mâche (corn salad). Definitely put rutabaga on your “gotta try it” list: Dense and nutty “Swede turnips” are really good (and easy!) when grown in the fall. Many Asian greens have been specially selected for growing in fall, too. Examples include ‘Vitamin Green’ spinach-mustard, supervigorous mizuna and glossy green tatsoi (also spelled tah tsai), which is beautiful enough to use as flower bed edging.
As you consider the possibilities, veer toward open-pollinated varieties for leafy greens, which are usually as good as — or better than — hybrids when grown in home gardens. The unopened flower buds of collards and kale pass for the gourmet vegetable called broccolini, and the young green seed pods of immature turnips and all types of mustard are great in stir-fries and salads. Allow your strongest plants to produce mature seeds. Collect some of the seeds for replanting, and scatter others where you want future greens to grow. In my garden, arugula, mizuna and turnips naturalize themselves with very little help from me, as long as I leave a few plants to flower and set seed each year.
With broccoli, cabbage, cauliflower, and their close cousins, hybrid varieties generally excel in terms of fast, uniform growth, so this is one veggie group for which the hybrid edge is a huge asset. Breeding work is underway to develop better open-pollinated varieties for organic growers, but for now, trusted hybrids such as ‘Belstar’ broccoli, ‘Gonzales’ cabbage or ‘Snow Crown’ cauliflower are usually the best choices.
Finally, be sure to leave ample space for garlic, which is planted later on, when you can smell winter in the air. Shallots, multiplying onions, and perennial “nest” onions are also best planted in mid-fall, after the soil has cooled. In short-season areas these alliums are planted in September; elsewhere they are planted in October.

4. Watering Fall Garden Plants: Keep ’Em Soaked

Even short periods of drought stress can put a nasty kink in the growth curve of most fall crops. Dry soil can be murder on slow-growing beets and carrots, and any type of setback can devastate temperamental cauliflower. Your best defense is to install a soaker hose before you set out plants or sow seeds. Try laying out the hose in various patterns and turning it on to get a good look at its coverage first. If the hose won’t stay where you put it, use short stakes or wire staples to hold it in place.
Keeping newly planted beds moist long enough for seeds to germinate is easy with leafy greens such as arugula, Chinese cabbage, collards, mizuna or turnips, because the seeds naturally germinate quickly, in five days or less. But beets, carrots, lettuce and spinach are often slower to appear, which means you must keep the seeded bed moist longer. Simple shade covers made from boards held above the bed by bricks do a great job of shielding the germination zone from drying sunshine, or you can shade seeded soil with cloth held aloft with stakes or hoops. You may still need to water by hand to make sure conditions stay moist, but shade covers can make the difference between watering once a day or four times as often.

5. Go Mad for Mulch

Whether you use fresh green grass clippings, last year’s almost-rotted leaves, spoiled hay, or another great mulch you have on hand, place it over sheets of newspaper between plants. The newspaper will block light, which will prevent weed growth, help keep the soil cool and moist, and attract night crawlers and other earthworms. To get the best coverage, lay down the double-mulch and wet it thoroughly before you plant your seedlings. Cover the soaker hose with mulch, too.
Mulching can have one drawback in that organic mulches are ideal nighttime hide-outs for slugs and snails, which come out at night and chew holes in the leaves of dozens of plants, and may ruin mature green tomatoes, too. Watch for mollusk outbreaks, and use iron phosphate baits or beer-baited traps, if needed, to bring problem populations under control.

6. Deploy Your Defenses Against Garden Pests

Luscious little seedlings attract a long list of aggressive pests, including cabbageworms, army worms, and ever-voracious grasshoppers. Damage from all of these pests (and more) can be prevented by covering seedlings with row covers the day they go into the garden. Use a “summer-weight” insect barrier row cover that retains little heat, or make your own by sewing or pinning two pieces of wedding net (tulle) into a long, wide shroud. Hold the row cover above the plants with stakes or hoops, and be prepared to raise its height as the plants grow. See The No-spray Way to Protect Plants for more details on using row covers in your garden.
Summer sun can be your seedlings’ best friend or worst enemy. Always allow at least a week of adjustment time for seedlings started indoors, gradually exposing them to more direct sunlight. Even transplants that are given a week to get used to strong sun appreciate a few days of shade after they are set out, which can be easily provided by placing an old sheet over the row cover. Or, you can simply pop flower pots over the seedlings for a couple of days after transplanting. In most areas, insect pressures ease as nights become chilly in mid-fall, but you might want to keep your row covers on a little longer if your garden is visited by deer, which tend to become more troublesome as summer turns to fall.

Fall Garden Planting Schedule

There is no time to waste getting your fall garden crops into the ground, but exactly when should you plant them? Exact dates vary with location, and we have two online tools to help you find the best planting times for your garden. See Know When to Plant What: Find Your Average First Fall Frost Date to find an article that includes a link to tables showing average frost dates for cities in your state. For fall gardens, we suggest using the date given for a 50 percent chance of having a 28-degree night — what gardeners call a killing frost. (Keep in mind that cold temperatures may come and go for several weeks in late fall. In most areas, you can easily stretch your fall season by covering plants with old blankets on subfreezing nights.) Also check out our What to Plant Nowpages for monthly planting checklists of vegetables and kitchen herbs for your region.
12 to 14 weeks before your first killing frost
  • Direct-sow last plantings of fast-maturing, warm-season vegetables such as snap beans, cucumbers, and summer squash. Also sow parsnips and rutabagas, and begin planting cilantro, lettuce, and radishes.
  • Start cabbage family seedlings indoors, and set out the seedlings as promptly as possible.
  • In climates with long autumns, plant celery, bulb fennel, and parsley in the fall.
10 to 12 weeks before your first killing frost
  • Set out broccoli, Brussels sprouts, cabbage, cauliflower, kale, kohlrabi, and cauliflower seedlings, along with celery, bulb fennel and parsley.
  • Direct-sow beets, carrots, collards, leeks and scallions, along with more lettuce and radishes. In some areas, even fast-maturing peas and potatoes will do well in the fall garden.
8 to 10 weeks before your first killing frost
  • Direct-sow arugula, Chinese cabbage, lettuce, turnips, spinach, mustard, pac choi, tatsoi, and other Asian greens.
  • Sow more lettuce and radishes, including daikons.
6 to 8 weeks before first killing frost
  • Make a final sowing of spinach along with mâche, which matches spinach for super winter-hardiness. (In most regions, you can expect to enjoy these crops in your Christmas salads!)
  • Make a final sowing of lettuce beneath a protective tunnel or frame.
On or around your first killing frost date
  • Every fall garden should include garlic and shallots. If you love onions, be sure to try multiplying onions and perennial “nest” onions. 

Getting the Most from Your Fall Garden

High-density planting in double or triple rows can increase your per-square-foot return by 40 percent with broccoli, or up to 70 percent with cabbage. Use a zigzag planting pattern to fit more plants into less space while allowing 18 inches between plants. Use dwarf varieties when spacing plants closer together, because too much crowding can lead to delayed maturation and low yields.
Cut-and-come-again harvesting can prolong the productive lives of heading crops such as spring-planted cabbage and Chinese cabbage. As long as the primary head is cut high, leaving a stout stub behind, small secondary heads often will develop within a few weeks. Many varieties of broccoli are enthusiastic cut-and-come-again vegetables, too. After the main head has been harvested (taking only 3 inches or so of stem), varieties such as ‘Belstar,’ ‘Green Goliath’ and many others produce numerous tender side shoots. The harvest will continue until temperatures drop into the teens, which seriously damages broccoli plants. In much of Zone 7 and 8, healthy broccoli plants will keep spewing out shoots for months, and sometimes all winter.
Transplant the untransplantable if that’s what it takes to get a good stand. For example, most gardeners have read that beets, carrots, and rutabagas should be sown directly in the garden, but I often get better filled, more uniform rows in late summer by starting seeds indoors and setting out seedlings when they show their first true leaf. If the seedlings are kept moist and shaded for a few days after transplanting, about 75 percent of them survive. If you feel the need to brush up on your seedling-handling skills, see Garden Transplanting: Expert Advice.


Read more: http://www.motherearthnews.com/print.aspx?id={E12AADD6-B599-46F9-AF14-D80638639472}#ixzz2ZyZ9C9Sv

Monday 22 July 2013

Montreal Quebec Student Exchange 2013


Montreal / Quebec Student Exchange 2013


We are grateful for the Montreal Quebec Student Exchange that came this year! Thanks also to Karlene N. from Ford City Neighbourhood Renewal Team for all her help as well!

All photos by Adam Wright


Rob helping, Bill looking, Student working!


 Karlene providing some instruction.


Rob telling students how we enriched the soil with active beneficial microorganisms and stir it into the compost and peat moss, let it settle, and how we will use these beds as cold frames in the late fall!


Rob sleeping while displaying his beets.


Scardycrow and the students having a visit.


Our plant ladder gets a 'makeover'.


We paint when we garden!


Painting


Giving the grass another cut! Twice this week with all the rain!


Karlene and Steve 


Steve and Bill ushering Scardycrow out of the garden for bad behavior.


Quebec, Montreal Student Exchange day

Working hard


Bill talking Student's ear off.


Rob R.


Rob saving his peas for next year.


Steve


Steve


Steve and Karlene

Water is Life!